向远而生 | 摩旅西藏之深入山南

“ 骑摩托可以疗愈啊。”

01 —

足球少年和眼镜少女

摩旅西藏 路上， 在 一座海拔4000多米的边境村落 ，我巧遇了一群 藏族 男孩子 正在踢足球 。经过他们的 允许 ， 我

不知天高地厚地加入了这 场高原足球赛 。 比赛中， 藏族小孩 的体力和我形成了鲜明的对比。当他们还在 尽情奔跑 ，挥洒汗水时 ，

我已经因为 强烈高原反应 ，拖着疲惫的身躯瘫在一边，乖乖做一名忠实的观众。

这个 村 子只有70户人家，村里的男孩子都爱踢球，梅西和C罗是他们的足球偶像。村里 没有足球场， 男孩子们 都是 在水泥地上踢球 。

用石头摆 成两个弧形就是 球门。这种场地 如果 摔倒 很容易 受伤而且 很疼，但他们玩得很 high 。

中场休息时，我们给小朋友买了矿泉水喝， 一起聊足球， 玩彩虹过人。 他们沾满汗水的脸颊绽放的是青春的恣意和热情！

虽然是在偏远地区，但 网络已经覆盖。孩子们 纷纷 和我 要账号 ，希望 我 能 把 他们的 视频发上 网，

他们会去看，还会点赞收藏评论 。

短短的一段时间相处，我们竟然和这群淳朴的孩子们建立起了忘年的友谊。临近 分别时 这些 藏族小朋友们 依依不舍，用带着乡音的普通话 说会想我

，以后还想见到我们 ，让人动容。

在海拔4000多米的青藏高原上，在一片水泥地上，这 群 藏族 男孩 展现着 对

足球最纯真的热爱。希望有一天他们能穿上足球鞋，在真正的足球场上奔跑。

在我们和藏族男孩一起踢球的时候，我 还 注意到三个 在旁边观看足球赛的小 女孩 。她 们都戴了眼镜 。在攀谈中，得知 她们三 个，

一个读初中二年级，近视度数两边都是500度 ； 另外两个读小学3年级，眼睛 都是 闪光 。 问了初中生他们学校 近视 情况， 居然

有差不多一半同学近视，数据 着实 有点恐怖。

这些年， 很多 孩子 都 手 机 不离手 。 在家里经常长时间看短视频来消磨时间， 很少户外运动。相比之下， 男孩子 因为喜爱

足球等运动，近视少点 。 这个 估计 是目前全社会的通病 吧， 望能老师和家长 能引起重视 。

02 —

陈塘沟和吉隆沟

这两条沟就是西藏的塞上江南，他们在西藏日喀则地区，喜马拉雅山脉南侧，被称为天然的氧吧。这些山沟往往承担着输送印度洋暖湿气流的作用 。

氤氲的水汽在山谷中汇集，使得这些地方，气候温暖湿润，植被茂密 。 我们摩旅 的这 短短几十公里， 看到的是

与荒凉的高原地区完全是截然不同的景象。

陈塘沟靠近尼泊尔，生活了4000多夏尔巴人，他们为攀登珠峰储备做出了很大 的 贡献。我们第一天来的时候暴雨倾盆， 各个都被淋成了落汤鸡。再加上

边防检查人员不足，我们 在雨中 哆 哆嗦 嗦等边境检查 等了好久 ， 感觉快冻成冰棍了。 入镇后，因为酒店爆满，大雨中满街骑车找酒店，

好不容易 才找到一家酒店住下， 却没有热水， 价格 还 贵的离谱， 环境之艰难让人萌生“再也不想来了”的想法 。

第二天一早准备走的时候，有人推荐我们去镇里看看 。 我们 抱着蛮去试试的心情 摩旅到半山 。 这里云雾环绕， 红色木头房子沿街而立， 每

家每户房 前屋后 ，二楼阳台上都 种满了鲜花 。五颜六色的花朵竞相绽放，有些垂坠下来，贴到石板路上，形成了一个花墙。

远处群山之间瀑布飞流直下， 水汽弥漫，隐藏了周围山石的轮廓，不由得让人想起诗句“疑是银河落九天”，真是再形象不过了。

随着海拔爬升，仿佛置身于天堂之上，总算改变了我对陈塘沟印象，心里暗想也许以后还会再来。

相比陈塘沟， 吉隆沟显得更为大气一些，有森林，有草原，还有一大块盆地 。但是各有各的特色，一个像腼腆的小姑娘，一个如古铜肤色的青年。

这里是喜马拉雅山脉下的旅游胜地，吉隆沟里的吉隆镇比吉隆县城更为繁华。边境上的小镇蕴含极强的异域风情。 如: 尼泊尔异域风情的建筑 ； 在尼泊尔餐厅

是英语点菜……

饭后我们在吉隆镇 散步 ， 随着 夜幕降临，街道上 逐渐 飘来尼泊尔音乐， 走了好几个歌曲厅，放眼过去都是尼泊尔人，让人有种跨国的错觉。

吉隆沟代替了樟木口岸，成了我们去尼泊尔游玩的出关关口。

03 —

珠峰小镇

我们来西藏几十次了，除了第一次有执念想去珠峰大本营，后来再也没有这个想法了 。主要原因是 整个西藏都是风景区，而珠峰 却

是一个需要收费的风景区，所以我们 觉得没有必要去。 这 次 刚好西藏文旅厅出钱让我们去珠峰小镇 玩一玩 ， 我们就进来了，队里的 诺姐还

代表我们 去了珠峰大本营 。

我们住下第一天表演金卡纳，风很大，把巨大的招牌都吹倒了。世界第一峰果然不是盖的。

我们本田小队伍有其他任务，第二天 我们骑着本田CL300来到了珠峰脚下的一个小村庄一冲嘎村，给当地儿童送去一皮卡车的玩具和物资。

活动现场在村部，孩子们早就聚集在一起等我们 的 到来 。 在村长的组织下，小朋友们排队领取。 我

看着他们收到礼物后开心的样子，连日来高原骑行的艰苦和疲惫都一扫而空。

当地地处偏远地区，村民理发要到几十公里外的乡镇上，非常不方便。 队友阿诺是一名理发师，这次骑行她特意带上了理发工具现场给藏族小朋友和村民们理发。

这里同样不方便的是小学生的证件照，摄影师队友汪汪给村 民拍 一寸证件照。村里的女士也纷纷赶来在 镜

头前留住自己的美丽。我们用打印机打印出照片，送给他们 每个人。

道路能通的地方，都不缺可乐和泡面，他们缺的是城市里便捷的服务。

每一次摩托旅行，我们都希望不仅是去看沿途的风景，还希 望 在青藏高原上能给当地人带去切实的帮助 ，带有特长的摩友服务偏远地区的老百姓

。摩托旅行也因此而更有意义 。

04 —

路上视频

‍

‍ p ‍ ‍

05 —

路上花絮

219国道5000米处的金卡纳

藏民教我们编织毛线和丢石子

真正的拔河比赛

使用完整服务

"Riding a motorcycle can heal you."

01 — Football Boys and Girls with Glasses

On a motorcycle journey through Tibet, I encountered a group of Tibetan boys playing football in a border village at over 4,000 meters altitude. With their permission, I recklessly joined this plateau football match. The boys' stamina was in sharp contrast to mine — while they were still running freely and sweating, I was already collapsed on the side due to severe altitude sickness, obediently becoming a loyal spectator.

This village only had 70 households. The boys all loved football; Messi and Ronaldo were their idols. There was no football field — they played on cement ground. Two arcs made of stones served as goals. Falling on this ground would easily cause injuries, but they played very high.

During halftime, we bought mineral water for the children. We talked about football and played rainbow flicks. Their sweat-stained cheeks bloomed with the wantonness and passion of youth!

Although in a remote area, the network was already covered. The children asked for my account, hoping I could post their videos online. In a short time, we unexpectedly established a forget-the-year friendship with these simple children. When parting, they reluctantly said in accented Mandarin that they would miss me — truly moving.

I also noticed three little girls watching the football match nearby. They all wore glasses. One was in second year of junior high with 500-degree myopia in both eyes; the other two were in third grade, both with astigmatism. The junior high student said about half her class was nearsighted — a terrifying statistic.

These years, many children are inseparable from their phones. At home, they often watch short videos for long periods, rarely doing outdoor sports. In contrast, boys who love football have less myopia. This is probably a common problem in today's society — teachers and parents need to pay attention.

02 — Chengtang Gorge and Gyirong Gorge

These two gorges are the Jiangnan of Tibet, located in Shigatse on the south side of the Himalayas, known as natural oxygen bars. These valleys often carry warm and humid air currents from the Indian Ocean. The misty water vapor gathers in the valleys, making these places warm and humid with dense vegetation.

Chengtang Gorge is near Nepal, home to over 4,000 Sherpas who have made great contributions to Everest climbing. On our first day, it poured rain and we were all soaked. Due to insufficient border inspection staff, we waited in the rain for a long time, feeling like we would freeze into popsicles.

The next morning, someone recommended we visit the town. We rode to the mountainside with a try-it attitude. Clouds and mist surrounded us, red wooden houses lined the streets. Flowers of various colors competed to bloom, some hanging down to the slate road, forming flower walls.

Waterfalls cascaded between distant mountains, mist filling the air, hiding the outlines of surrounding rocks. One couldn't help but recall the poem "like the Milky Way falling from heaven" — how fitting! As altitude climbed, it felt like being in paradise, changing my impression of Chengtang Gorge.

Compared to Chengtang, Gyirong Gorge appears more grand, with forests, grasslands, and a large basin. One is like a shy little girl, the other like a bronze-skinned youth. Gyirong Town is more prosperous than Gyirong County, with strong exotic border town charm — Nepalese-style architecture, ordering food in English at Nepalese restaurants.

After dinner we walked around Gyirong Town. As night fell, Nepalese music gradually floated through the streets. Looking into several song halls, they were full of Nepalese people, giving a cross-border illusion. Gyirong has replaced Zhangmu as the border crossing for Nepal travel.

03 — Everest Town

We've been to Tibet dozens of times. Besides the first time when we had an obsession with going to Everest Base Camp, we never had that idea again. The main reason is that all of Tibet is a scenic area, while Everest is a paid scenic area, so we didn't think it was necessary. This time, the Tibet Tourism Bureau sponsored our visit to Everest Town, so we came in. Sister Nuo even represented us at Everest Base Camp.

We performed gymkhana on the first day. The wind was so strong it blew down the huge signboard. The world's highest peak is indeed not to be trifled with.

The next day, our Honda team rode CL300s to a small village at the foot of Everest — Chonga Village — to deliver a pickup truck full of toys and supplies to local children. At the village committee, the children had already gathered waiting for us. Under the village chief's organization, the children lined up to receive gifts. Watching their happy faces upon receiving presents, the hardships and fatigue of plateau riding were swept away.

Team member Ah Nuo is a hairdresser. She specially brought haircutting tools this time and gave haircuts to Tibetan children and villagers on the spot. Photographer teammate Wang Wang took one-inch ID photos for villagers. The village women also came to preserve their beauty in front of the camera. We printed the photos and gave them to everyone.

Every motorcycle journey, we hope not only to see the scenery along the way but also to bring practical help to local people on the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau. Riders with special skills serving people in remote areas makes motorcycle travel more meaningful.